Topic: Buying a Treeless Saddle
Check out our guide to buying a Treeless Saddle.
http://www.equinecompare.co.uk/docs/Buy … lessSaddle
1) Do you want to add anything to our guide?
2) What do you think of treeless saddles?
3) Which one do you rate?
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Buying a Treeless Saddle
Posts [ 6 ]
- Kelly
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Re: Buying a Treeless Saddle
After researching this subject I would consider buying a treeless saddle in the future but would only look for suppliers offering home trials / loans of the saddle and if possible a fitting service. I have heard a few horror stories about treeless saddles damaging horses spines but I do believe that this is down to the correct amount and type of padding fitted for the saddle, horse and rider circumstances.
The Heather Moffett saddles look good to me I would probably start there. 
- Bay Mare
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Re: Buying a Treeless Saddle
A couple of points:
Adapt to horses with high withers, wide backs and uneven shoulders
Most treeless saddles aren't that suitable for high withered horses despite what the companies will tell you. The only one that I would use on a high withered horse is the Fhoenix Vogue.
Rider Weight - Always check with the supplier for weight restrictions for their saddles. Some treeless saddles are not suitable for very heavy riders and extra pads are required for saddles used with heavy riders to ensure there is no pressure on the horse's spine.
There are weight restrictions (about 15 stone is the general figure given) but you also have to take into account how lightly the person rides. A heavier person who rides lightly is better than a rider who weighs a stone or two less but rides like a sack of potatoes. Personally I wouldn't want to use extra pads to offset the weight of a heavier rider as it's still pressure on the horse's back.
Riding Position - Treeless saddles can make the rider sit wider than a conventional saddle would, which doesn't suit everybody. Some riders also miss the twist provided by a conventional, treed saddle.
Some treed saddles have a twist built in which can make it feel pretty much near to a treed saddle. It could be in some cases that the hips are stiff and will stretch out with time and exercises which will make them more comfortable. There are, of course, some people who just don't get on with them.
Correct Fitting - Don't assume that because the saddles can fit multiple horses that they don't need to be carefully fitted. If you are buying a treeless saddle you must make sure that the appropriate pads are used to protect the horse's spine. The company selling you the saddle should offer a fitting and advice service.
A good company will have agents who can advise you on the fit and padding options available. Some treeless saddles have a gullet so you don't have to worry so much about the spine clearance but you may still need to pad to offset atrophy caused by a too narrow saddle for example.
The riding position you want – e.g. Heather Moffett treeless saddles enable the rider to have a classical riding position whereas Libra Trek saddles put riders in a bareback riding position.
Pliance testing has shown that the riding position is a big factor when assessing pressure issues with both treeless and treed saddles. The 'classical' position is the one that we should all strive for. It's not just about looking pretty but about effectiveness. A chair seat (or bareback) seat will put your weight at the back of the saddle, this will put a lot of pressure in this area especially when you do rising trot. A driving seat (aka 'polishing the saddle') gives appalling pressure readings and puts a lot of pressure on the horse's back. Having set back stirrup bars helps us to be balanced in the saddle whether we're doing dressage, jumping or hacking out. The one discipline where you need to have your feet further forwards is cross country especially over drop fences and the like.
The type, shape and number if pads used will depend greatly on the saddle, the shaPads - protective pads should be used with a treeless saddle to create a channel over the horse's spine.
You are recommended to used special pads with some treeless saddles but with others, as long as you're not shimming for atrophy, then a regular cotton saddlecloth is recommended ... always high withered cut though so that it doesn't pull over the withers (but then I'd recommend that with a treed saddle too).
Girths - treeless saddles require longer girths in order to avoid the girths hitting the elbows.
A dressage (shorter) girth with dressage girth straps actually gives better stability. Whether you're riding in a treed or a treeless it's important that the buckles of the girth aren't too low, they should be an inch or two below the saddle flaps, no more.
Stirrups - treeless saddles often have closed D rings for the stirrup leathers, unlike conventional saddles which have open D rings to help prevent dragging. Safety stirrups or Barnes Buckles should be used with treeless saddles.
Some of the top end saddles can be used with normal stirrups. My preference is for dressage leathers as they have less bulk under your thigh. They also seem to stay on better than 'regular' stirrup leathers. Stirrup wise I use a wide tread stirrup which faces straight on when on the saddle, very comfortable and easier to keep your toes facing forwards.
Use a breastplate with a treeless saddle to help prevent the saddle from slipping back and turning.
You can use a breastplate but you shouldn't have to. Some horses with big shoulders will push the saddle back but the saddle should be stable enough without having to be held on with a breastplate.
If possible, hire a pressure testing pad such as the 'Port Lewis' pad to ensure that the saddles you are trying don't cause discomfort / pressure points for the horse.
This can be useful but you have to be aware that rider interaction could be causing the problem and not the saddle.
"Before you criticise someone walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you DO criticise them you are a mile away and you have their shoes"
- Bay Mare
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Re: Buying a Treeless Saddle
Kelly wrote:
I have heard a few horror stories about treeless saddles damaging horses spines but I do believe that this is down to the correct amount and type of padding fitted for the saddle, horse and rider circumstances.
Certain saddle fitters will tell these stories, one told me the same thing knowing full well that I had a treeless saddle for Saff! One even takes photos of damage done to a horse around and shows them to people on the yard. He doesn't, however tell you the full story of how the damage happened.
Whilst most treeless (or part treed) saddles will FIT all or most horses they won't SUIT all horses (or riders), some horses just prefer the feel of a treed so you have to listen to your horse. I totally agree that it's always wise to get an agent in and to get a trial saddle for a week or two. Riding in a treeless does feel different so you have to give it a few goes as many people are put off if they only ride in them once.
A good quality treeless saddle shouldn't damage your horses back any more than a well fitting treed saddle should damage your horses back. A lot of people who spread these horror stories haven't even seen never mind ridden in a treeless saddle ... others just have a vested interest in you buying a treed saddle 
Needless to say I like treeless saddles and would hate to go back to a treed saddle now (though I would if I had to).
My favourite has to be the Fhoenix Vogue which has a narrower twist, looks almost normal and is just sooooo comfortable. The Fhoenix Standard is a good saddle too but with a wider twist and not quite so normal looking but probably more affordable for most people.
One tip ... don't buy the £99 ones off ebay. They're £99 for a reason! If they look normal then they're not treeless as even the top treeless saddle makers can make them look that real!
"Before you criticise someone walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you DO criticise them you are a mile away and you have their shoes"
Re: Buying a Treeless Saddle
Hi All
I bought a treeless Barefoot Arizona a while ago, after having very costly failed attempts to get a traditional saddle for my round, high withered highland. He loves it, can't believe how relaxed he was, I love it, it really helps me with my western riding no end. One down side as it has been used but not that much and it has gone floppy and the nubuck looks very tired. I would like to get a more fancy looking western treeless saddle for shows but don't know where to go as there is a lot of conflicting info on the market. Anyone have anything to say about a Hilason? Thats the sort of thing I'm looking for. One thing about the british treeless saddles is the fact they look pretty ugly unlike the Bob Marshalls (which I can't afford!!)
Thanks from highland hopper!! good riding
- Bay Mare
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Re: Buying a Treeless Saddle
Some of the British treeless do look ugly but then you can say that about any treeless saddle, no matter where it's from. I will agree with that but there are some that look like the Bob Marshall's and some of the higher end ones look very traditional (which I prefer). It depends on your opinion of 'ugly' I look of saddle anyway
I wouldn't touch an English style Hilason with a very long bargepole, they tend to be copies of other brands and very poor copies at that from the ones that I've seen. I've heard good things about the Western type saddles but, personally, I wouldn't deal with them.
Barefoot do Western type saddles and are a good company. They could be made from better leather but are nice to ride in. I don't know them but Startrekk saddles are supposed to be quite nice.
"Before you criticise someone walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you DO criticise them you are a mile away and you have their shoes"
Posts [ 6 ]
